Archive for October, 2008

Vast Deserts & Affordable Plums

Tuesday, October 21st, 2008

Our original plan was to stay on the road a few more days and travel into Arizona and the Grand Canyon. However, 16 hotel rooms, one campground, and 3700 miles later, we voted to head into California and save Arizona for a separate trip. We realized that we had seen so much already that we simply wouldn’t appreciate seeing more amazing things until we got off the road and refueled our capacity to absorb the beauty of the world around us.

After a good night’s rest in our free posh hotel room, we hit the road with a 9 hour drive ahead of us – the longest one of our trip. The first half is through the miles and miles of desert.

Mojave Desert, California

Mojave Desert, California

After a few hours of sand and shrubs, I started to wonder if we were really headed towards fruit and vegetable heaven. Eventually the desert did end and we made it into the rolling hills and agricultural valleys of California.

California Rolling Hills

California Rolling Hills

Rose fields near Bakersfield

Rose fields near Bakersfield

Sunset over a bridge on Highway 12

Sunset over a bridge on Highway 12 (with bug remains on windshield)

The sun set on our journey as we arrived in Fairfield on Friday evening, October 17th. We were pleased to see that the Vegas-Fairfield drive can indeed be done in a day, as long as one stops half-way to eat a giant burrito in Bakersfield.

Our first morning in California I headed straight to the local farmer’s market, only a couple minutes from our new temporary home. I am enough of a vegetable geek that I started taking pictures before picking out my produce.

Larry's Produce, Fairfield, CA

Larry's Produce, Fairfield, CA

Affordable Plums!

Affordable Plums!

What would this cost at Whole Foods?

Quiz: What would this cost at Whole Foods?

For those of you who appreciate fresh, affordable fruits and vegetables, please don’t feel bad when I tell you what the vegetables in the above photo cost. The total for everything in the photo was $25.55.

So we made it to our abundantly sunny destination and it is even warmer, yummier, and more affordable than we expected. Thank you to all of you who took the time to read these entries. I hope you found at least one thing in all these words to insprire the traveler in you! Please check back soon for more posts as we explore our new horizons.

Bally’s Las Vegas & Al Dente

Tuesday, October 21st, 2008

Eighteen days into our journey we left Utah and headed towards Las Vegas, Nevada where a free hotel room awaited us. (Somehow all our previous attempts to break Vegas are now paying off because occasionally we get these great offers for free rooms.)

The road to Vegas from Zion took us through the corner of Arizona, where we got to see many more miles of spectacular rock formations.

John drove this leg of the trip and quickly noticed that this stretch of 17-South is very much like the expert level of a driving video game.

At this point in our journey, we realized that we were pretty overstimulated from everything we’ve seen. I found myself thinking, “Dear brain, please process breathtaking canyon #263.”

We were delighted to roll into Las Vegas, which is pretty familiar territory for us. The universe plotted away in our favor and Bally’s somehow decided to upgrade our room. They really weren’t kidding.

Ridiculous. I loved it.

Ridiculous. I loved it.

We played some poker and just a dab of roulette. Lady luck was on our side so we ended up treating ourselves to a lovely Italian dinner at Al Dente. John had the lasagna and I had the rigatoni bolognese. (I was so good at eating lots of vegetables during our trip that the only thing my body craved at this point was pasta and meat!) We paired our feast with a lush and fruity 2005 St. Francis Old Vine Zinfandel from California.

For those of you who would like to take a stab at free hotel rooms and fancy dinners in Las Vegas, here is our Roulette tip:

Find a table with a low minimum bet ($10 if they have it) and buy in for an amount you can afford to lose without feeling too disgusted (just in case you do lose it). Then choose 10 numbers that you fancy and spread your chips on them – this is called “playing singles on the inside.” Then watch the little ball and wheel as they spin and think uber-happy loving and grateful thoughts.

When to stop:

1. You hit few spins and are happy with what you won (maybe you started with $50 and now have $100)

2. You played for a while and are sideways. One hour of not losing your money is a statistical achievement.

3. You lost. Perhaps you didn’t muster up enough good thoughts. Try harder next time.

Most important – always use a player’s club card for the casino you are in. That is how you get free posh hotel rooms.

Kolob Canyons, Zion National Park

Saturday, October 18th, 2008

Zion National Park only has a handful of paved roads. Most of the land is only accessible by foot if you are very experienced hiker and camper. The southern access point at Springdale takes you through Zion canyon, but is very crowded with shuttle buses and heaps of people.

To see more of Zion in a quiet and undisturbed setting, we head back to the northwest access point at Kolob Canyons. This area has a five mile paved scenic road and several hiking trails. There are far less people in this area. It is also much higher up in the cliffs, which offers a different perspective than being down in the canyons.

Travel tip: We noticed the motels near this part of Zion are only around $40 night, which is much cheaper than the lodges at the southern point which run $100/night and more. If your plan is to explore the Zion hiking trails and you prefer that they aren’t crawling with people, then Cedar City might be a better and cheaper place to stay than Springdale.

Bit & Spur, Springdale, UT

Thursday, October 16th, 2008

Springdale is a lovely, clean little town with lots of lodges and gift shops. It has at least one excellent restaurant – the Bit & Spur.  The food here is very fresh and creative with a Mexican theme. I had a roasted poblano pepper stuffed with mushrooms, polenta, and goat cheese. It came with a huge fresh field green salad. John had a burrito. He wasn’t thrilled with the sauce (very smokey) but the burritos are huge and also one of the more affordable choices on the menu.  The restaurant is a fairly pricey for Utah (a meat entree will cost you nearly $30) but Springdale seems to be a more upscale vacation town. The wine list here includes the reliable, excellent, and affordable Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone Parallel 45. This is a wine we discovered on our honeymoon because it was the only thing we could afford in the restaurant at our hotel.  We were delighted to stumble upon this fantastic wine again, and it turned out to be a great pairing with our spicey and bold fare.

Springdale, UT & Zion National Park

Thursday, October 16th, 2008

We stayed a couple nights in a small town called Springdale at the south end of Zion National Park. I was up at sunrise yesterday, and saw the full moon setting from our hotel parking lot:

Moonset-Sunrise in Springdale

Moonset-Sunrise in Springdale

Springdale has a small animal farm where you can see creatures you normally wouldn’t get too close to, like elk, buffalo, and long-horned bulls.

Elk making funny face.

Elk making funny face.

The animals here don’t seem too happy although they have big piles of dry grass to eat. They prefer the fresh stuff, but have eaten it to the ground on their side of the fence. So here’s John giving an elk some of “the good stuff.” He also had the courage to feed the buffalo below!

Check out the racks on these guys!

Springdale and Zion Park have a free shuttle that take you all around the Zion Canyon part of the park. Our experience is that you’d get to see a lot more nature and less people if you had the courage to take a very long hike deep into the Park. You need a lot of experience to hike this land – it’s very hot and steep, you need heaps of water with you, and even some of the well-traveled paths have 800 foot drops and only 30 inches of trail! And if the cliffs aren’t scary enough, there are rattle snakes and mountain lions in Zion.

It’s hard to convey size of these cliffs in photographs. In the next couple photos I’ve included a stop sign and a person as reference objects.

This cliff is even taller than it looks here.

Can't see the person? They are inside the red circle!

There are some great rocks here. The one behind John below is probably about 40 feet high and sitting at a rather precarious angle.

Zion’s landscape includes both desert and water. Water from snow melt and storms far away ends up in the canyons. The Virgin River flows though here, and there are numerous waterfalls and hanging gardens.

Small Emeral Pool

Small Emeral Pool

Weeping Rock glistening in sun

Weeping Rock glistening in sun

The Virgin River - North America's fastest river

The Virgin River - North America's fastest river

Utah

Thursday, October 16th, 2008

On Tuesday we left Grand Junction, Colorado and headed into Utah. We suspected we might encounter vast stretches of rural land before seeing the next gas station, so we topped off the tank and removed the bug-graveyard that seems to form on our windshield every day.

Every good roadtrip demands frequent removal of bug graveyards.

The last few entries in this blog have used more photos than words so that I could best share the wonders of this country’s varying landscape. Utah turns out to be some of the most unreal and striking land we have seen on our journey. We drove west on I-70 across hundreds of miles of Utah’s harsh deserts and ancient rock formations.

Black Dragon Canyon

A small oasis town in the San Rafael desert area

This last image shows a small oasis town in the San Rafael desert area. A small river running through this area supports life – a stark contrast to the hundreds of miles surrounding it.

Colorado

Monday, October 13th, 2008

We entered Colorado from the east, and luckily we had the sense to top off our gas tank in a little town called Lamar. After Lamar, there was almost 170 miles of road with not a single gas station! There were a couple ghost towns, but this is pretty much all we saw:

94 West - don't try this road on half a tank.

90 miles later . . .

The next picture shows Window Gadget’s (our GPS) assessment of the situation. The “81″ in the bottom right corner is how many miles we have left before out next turn.

Heading West. Obviously.

Civilization does resume as soon as you approach the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. We stayed a night with friends in Colorado Springs – Thank You Rachel, Josh, and Sophia!

Rachel is a mom!

Near the Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs

The next day we took off to cross the Rocky Mountains. The drive on I-70 here is spectacular. The landscape changes every ten minutes in unimaginable ways. What follows is only a tiny sample of what we saw.

The mountain view from Denver

Snow melting on trees.

Are "Danger - Falling Rock" signs really helpful?

Snow covered peaks at about 12,000 feet.

Heading down the west side of the mountains the terrain gets a lot dryer and rockier. Some of the scenery looks like another planet!

Heading down the west side of the Rocky Mountains

Casey’s Cowtown Club, Dodge City, KS

Monday, October 13th, 2008

We stayed two nights in Kansas because it is indeed “as big as you think” and it takes a long time to drive across it. We stopped in Wichita at a comfy Hilton and even got to do our laundry – yay! The next night we headed out to Dodge City, an old wild-west town that has seen better days.

Even the downtown area has mostly abandoned strips of retail space. It’s hard to tell when this town was at it’s prime, but it certainly wasn’t in the last 30 years. It does have this great bull in the town center.

Dodge city is surrounded by cow pastures and feed lots. So of course the local steakhouse, Casey’s Cowtown Club, serves up the local beef. The cows are raised outside of town, brought down the road to the feed lot to fatten up, taken across the street to be “dispatched”, and the meat is then cut and aged for 30 days on site at the restaurant.

We shared a T-bone and a rib-eye. The steak here really is incredible. Although the animals aren’t pasture finished, the meat is so fresh it has a really robust flavor. The vegetables (over-cooked green beans and various forms of potato) aren’t anything worth blogging about, but the steak is almost worth the several-hundred-mile drive to get here.

Kansas

Monday, October 13th, 2008

“It’s as big as you think.” That is the state slogan – and it looks a whole lot like you think it might.

and this . . .

Roadkill is quite frequent out here. At one point we tried to play a game, “Name That Animal!” but it turned out to be more difficult than an old edition of Trivial Pursuit. The only ones we got right were the skunks.

Don’t get the wrong idea – there is some variety in the landscape. At one point, we drove past a beautiful field of sunflowers. There are also lots of wheat fields and cow pastures.

green!

Brown!

Cows!

Scrap metal wind-thing-a-ma-jigs!

Doomed Cows

This last photo shows a feed lot. This is where cows are sent to be fattened up before they are slaughtered. This picture doesn’t really do justice to the size of these things and how many cows are in them. I didn’t stop to take a better shot – the smell of these places as you drive by is enough to make you sick. But this is a reality of the beef industry, and it didn’t stop us from trying the local steak at Casey’s Cowtown Club in Dodge City.

Eureka Springs Restaurants

Saturday, October 11th, 2008

One of the best things about Eureka Springs is the amazing collection of great restaurants. They actually eat vegetables in this town!

Our first night we ate at DeVito’s, a tiny Italian restaurant in the heart of the town. The pasta was delicious, and we shared a bottle of 2006 Centine Banfi Sangiovese/Cab. Sauv./Merlot blend from Italy. The bold scent of this affordable wine greets you with fruit and anise. Its medium-bodied flavor is tart, zesty, and fruity with a long finish.

The other highly-praised Italian restaurant in town is Ermilio’s. We ate here our last night and the food was fantastic. The filet mignon really does melt in your mouth like butter. I had the “Italian flag” pasta where they pour on three sauces – pesto, alfredo, and tomato-basil. Near the end you can mix them up for a real treat. We paired this with the always-reliable and very drinkable J. Lohr Cabernet.

Breakfast was a dream. The Mud Street Cafe serves Veggie Grits and Veggie Hash Browns. They load them up with broccoli, squash, tomatoes, cauliflower, olives, sprouts, carrots, garlic, and salsa and melted cheddar cheese. You are nicely stuffed for most of the day and you’ve had your veg too! I am definitely making this at home.

More great spots include Local Flavor (lots of great sandwiches for lunch) and New Dehli Cafe. We had Avocado sandwiches from New Dehli one evening – they are served on a warm and super-soft toasted croissant. Both restaurants have affordable menus with lots of great vegetarian options. (This was a relief after being in Tennessee and Mississippi for several days, where vegetables barely make an appearance on restaurant menus.)